On August 30, 2024, thousands of runners from all corners of the globe will descend on Chamonix, France for what is considered by most in the ultrarunning community to be the most renowned race of the entire year, Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB).
UTMB earned its place as the crown jewel of ultrarunning by being one of the most challenging yet beautiful races anywhere. The race combines the beauty and brutality of the Alps in a way that brings runners back year after year.
The History of UTMB
UTMB was conceived in 2003 by a group of passionate trail runners who wanted to push the boundaries of what was possible in ultramarathons. What began as a relatively small race of 700 runners has since grown into a world-renowned event, with the entire race week (more on that in a minute) attracting over 10,000 runners yearly! The race’s rapid rise to success is a testament to the allure of Mont Blanc’s rugged landscape and challenging terrain.
The Course: The Main Attraction
The UTMB course is a masterpiece of mountain running, with an elevation gain of 32,800 feet over the roughly 105-mile course. The challenging loop takes runners through the heart of the Alps and into three European countries: France, Italy, and Switzerland. The route takes runners over some of the most demanding trails in Europe, with steep ascents, technical descents, and high-altitude passes.
Runners start in Chamonix, France. This small town, nestled at almost 16,000 feet in the Alps, serves as the race’s hub. From there, runners head into the French Alps, ascending steep, rocky trails and traversing rocky ridgelines before crossing into Italy.
The Italian portion of the course offers stunning views of Mont Blanc and a chance to experience the unique culture of the Aosta Valley. From there, runners enter Switzerland, where the challenge of climbing Col Ferret awaits them, one of the highest points on the course.
The final leg brings runners back into France, with a triumphant return to the roaring crowds at the finish line in Chamonix.
The Races: A Week of Ultra-Endurance
While the primary UTMB race is the flagship event, UTMB week is a celebration of everything trail racing. Several other races take place, each with its unique challenges and appeal:
- CCC (Courmayeur-Champex-Chamonix): This 60-mile race starts in Courmayeur, Italy, and follows sections of the UTMB course. With almost 20,000 feet of elevation gain, it is often seen as a stepping stone to the full UTMB course.
- TDS (Sur les Traces des Ducs de Savoie): Known for its technical difficulty, the TDS course is 90 miles with almost 30,000 feet of elevation gain. TDS offers a more rugged and wild experience, taking runners through more remote sections of the Alps that are less traveled than the UTMB route.
- OCC (Orsières-Champex-Chamonix): At just 55 km, the shortest race of UTMB week, OCC is no less intense than the longer events. Over 11,000 feet of elevation gain in the short event makes it a fast-paced yet grueling challenge.
- PTL (Petite Trotte à Léon): The PTL is a team event that covers approximately 185 miles and climbs a staggering 82,000 feet. Unlike most other races, it isn’t a timed event, focusing instead on teamwork, navigation, and survival skills as teams traverse unmarked trails over several days. Teams have six days to complete the grueling challenge.
- MCC (Martigny-Combe-Chamonix): A relatively new race, the MCC is a 25-mile race designed specifically for volunteers, locals, and newcomers to the UTMB experience. It offers runners a taste of the UTMB experience in a much more accessible format.
- YCC (Youth Chamonix Courmayeur): The YCC is a race designed to give younger runners a taste of the UTMB atmosphere in their own event. It is approximately 9 miles long and has over 3,500 feet of elevation gain, meaning even the youngest runners can experience the excitement and challenge of running in the Alps.
The Challenge: More Than Just Physical
The UTMB is often described as more than just a race; it is a life-changing experience. Completing the UTMB requires exceptional physical fitness and incredible mental toughness. Runners must navigate through some of the most challenging terrain in the world, often in extreme weather conditions. Even the most seasoned endurance athletes will be pushed to their limits by the altitude, cold, wind, and fatigue.
The logistical challenge is another element of the UTMB that makes it so difficult. Self-sufficiency is a crucial component of the race, so runners must carry all the mandatory equipment, including waterproof clothing, headlamps, survival blankets, and emergency food supplies.
Sleep deprivation is another significant factor in the difficulty of UTMB. Unlike most 100-mile ultras that start early in the day, UTMB begins at 6 pm local time. That means most runners outside of the elite and professional athletes will likely have to run through at least part of the second night. Runners finishing in the late stages of the 46.5-hour cutoff must run through two complete nights.
When all of these factors are added to the immense physical challenge of UTMB, it becomes quite apparent why crossing the finish line back in Chamonix, France, is such a rewarding experience.
The Trail Running Community
One of the most remarkable aspects of the UTMB is the sense of community, even though runners come from over 100 countries around the globe. Every single one of them is united by their love of trail running and the desire to test themselves against one of the most challenging 100-mile races in the world.
The camaraderie among participants is unmistakable, as they all share the physical experience of UTMB and the emotional highs and lows that come with it.
The spectators also play a crucial role in the UTMB experience, as the towns and villages along the route come alive with the energy of the race. The atmosphere in Chamonix, in particular, is electric during the start and finish, as thousands of people gather to cheer on the runners.
Notable Performances
The Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc has attracted some of the most talented and celebrated trail runners from around the world. Several of the most significant trail runners have left their marks (and course records) of the race, and they include:
Killian Jornet - Kilian is one of, if not the most iconic figures in trail racing in the last twenty years. His performances at UTMB over the years have helped cement that legacy for years to come. Kilian has won the race four times (2008, 2009, 2001, and 2022), making him one of the most successful runners in the event's history.
Francois D’Haene - Francois, like Killian, has won the race four times (2012, 2014, 2017, and 2021), giving them the tie for most wins by a male runner. Known for his consistent performance, strategic racing style, and exceptional endurance, the French runner has also won other prestigious events, like the Hardrock 100 and the Diagonale des Fous.
Jim Walmsley - Jim is one of the most exciting and talented ultra-runners in recent years. He combines an aggressive racing style with remarkable speed, making him a strong contender in any race he enters. Jim is no stranger to UTMB, having run the course a few times before finally taking home 1st place (and the current course record of 19:37:43) in 2023.
Courtney Dauwalter - Courtney has become one of the most celebrated female ultra-runners in recent years, and her performances at UTMB have been a testament to why. Not only did she win the women’s race in 2019, 2021, and 2023, but she also holds the woman’s course record of 23:15:12. Courtney has also won pretty much every other race she has started as well, including the Hardrock 100, Western States, Big Backyard, and many more.
Lizzy Hawker - Lizzy is a trail running legend and one of the most successful female athletes in UTMB history. She has won the women’s race five times (2005, 2008, 2010, 2011, and 2012), a record that still stands today. Lizzy used her incredible endurance and ability to perform at a high level in challenging conditions to earn her place among the all-time greats of trail running.
A Race Like No Other
UTMB is more than just a race; it's a journey, a challenge, and a celebration of the human spirit. It tests runners both mentally and physically against one of the most stunning landscapes in the world.
For those lucky enough to take on UTMB, the experience is unforgettable and likely never to be rivaled. Even being a spectator or volunteer means being a part of something extraordinary - an event embodying the essence of adventure, determination, and will. It should come as no surprise why runners spend years trying for their chance to stand on the starting line in Chamonix, France.
